
10.咸魚汁養猪
Raising Pigs in Salted Fish Sauce

五十年代吉澳差不多每户都養猪。最早期是在户外散養,猪隻到處跑,週圍拉屎,因猪屎曬乾做肥料能夠賣錢,通過投標有專人執猪糞,不致影響環境衛生。後來家家户户建造猪寮,猪隻關在猪寮養,猪寮外面有個小池叫做「豬屎湖」,承接冲洗流出的豬糞,户外猪糞因而絕跡,「阿撿伯」都要改行賣豆腐了。吉澳養猪用的飼料,主要是剁碎番薯苗煮熟加些糠。二師兄(豬八戒)都幾識食,如果豬菜沒有味道,便食慾不振。猪農為了猪隻快大,食得積極,想到個對策,餵豬時在豬菜上加點味道,加些甚麽呢?通常是咸魚汁,或者叫咸魚味。以前吉澳出產的豬,用今天的名詞,叫「有機豬」,原全没有食化學食物及抗生素。
小時見過我的鄰居叔婆醃製咸魚汁,製法簡單。買點細小的雜魚,不用去骨擋肚,洗淨後灑上鹽,醃幾個月,待魚肉發酵溶化變成汁便可以用,餵時加點入豬菜,二師兄聞到會非常興奮搶住食。這種汁也可供人食,蒸熟加入粥裏或撈飯,我食過,味道似梅香咸魚。
In the 1950s, almost every household in Kat O raised pigs. In the early days, the pigs were kept outdoors, running around and shitting all over the place. As the pig droppings were dried and used as fertiliser, they could be sold for money, and there were people to enforce the pig droppings through tenders, so that the environmental hygiene was not affected. Later, families built pigsties and kept their pigs in the pigsties. Outside the pigsties, there was a small pond called the "pig shit lake", which received the pig shit that came out of the pigsties and flushed them out.
The feed used to raise pigs in Kat O is mainly chopped sweet potato seedlings boiled with some chaff. The Second Brother (Porky Pig), who is a very poor eater, will lose his appetite if the pig's food does not have any flavour. In order to make the pigs grow bigger and eat more actively, the pig farmer came up with a solution to add some flavour to the pig's vegetables when feeding the pigs, what to add? Usually it is salted fish sauce or salted fish flavour. In the old days, pigs produced in Kat O were called "organic pigs" in today's terminology, and were free from chemical food and antibiotics.
When I was a kid, I saw my neighbour's aunt and uncle making salted fish sauce, and the method was simple. The method is simple: buy some small mixed fish, don't need to remove the bones and stomach, wash it, sprinkle salt on it, marinate it for a few months, and then use it when the fish meat has fermented and melted and turned into juice, and feed it with a little pig's lettuce, which would make my second brother very excited to snatch up the food when he smelled it. This kind of juice can also be used for human consumption, steamed and added to congee or salted rice, I have eaten, the flavour is like salted fish with plum fragrance.