top of page

9. 木飯甑蒸飯

Steaming Rice in a Wooden Rice Pot

lau09.jpg

上世紀六十年代前吉澳村中辦喜事宴客,不論結婚生日,都不會去酒樓擺酒,全部在村中露天坐席。飲宴用的碗筷桌凳是天后宮借來的,廚子和幫忙的人都是吉澳村的左鄰右里。先在户外架起臨時大灶,豬肉和雞鴨都是即場生劏的。四方桌,坐長凳,一桌坐八人。除了要煮大量餸菜,以前的人很吃得飯,無飯不歡,因此要准備充足的白飯。每次主人家謝客時都說:「大家冇菜食飽飯」,如果不夠飯,主人家會覺得很沒面子。

 

客家人在村中辦酒席,香噴噴的白飯是用木飯甑蒸出來的。甑,客家話讀「箭」。飯甑似個底部透氣的木桶,加入煮過的米放入大鑊裏蒸,一個大鑊只夠放一個飯甑,由於擺酒要用很多甑飯,主人家要靠鄰居幫忙,如要六桶飯便要分六家人同一時間蒸。由於每次喜事要動員很多人,各司其職,鬧哄哄的喜氣滿滿,非常熱鬧。

 

西貢客家人多,「萬宜水庫」對出有個無人居住的小島取名「飯甑洲」,地形似飯甑也。企嶺下海近十四鄉的井頭村有两個島嶼,大的叫烏洲外形像一團飯(一碗飯),小島叫「三杯酒二杯茶」,因為小島上有5個小山崗,中間的三個山崗比較細小,而且聚在一起,像3個拜神用的小酒杯,兩端較大的山崗像兩個沒有杯耳的茶杯。两島合稱為「 三杯酒兩杯茶一碗飯」。古時客家人最要緊的事是有飯食,所以地方名也不忘加個飯字。

 Before the 1960s, people in Kat O used to sit in the open air in the village to celebrate weddings and birthdays, instead of going to restaurants. The bowls, chopsticks, tables and stools used for banquets were borrowed from the Tin Hau Temple, and the cooks and helpers were all neighbours of Kat O village. A temporary cooking stove was set up outdoors, and pork, chickens and ducks were all slaughtered on the spot. There are four square tables and benches, seating eight people at a table. In addition to cooking a large number of dishes, people in the old days ate a lot of rice, so it was necessary to have plenty of rice. Whenever the hosts thanked their guests, they would say, "Everyone has enough rice without food", and if they didn't have enough rice, the hosts would feel very humiliated.

 

 When the Hakka people hold a banquet in the village, the fragrant rice is steamed in a wooden rice steamer. The word "steamer" is pronounced "arrow" in Hakka. The rice steamer looks like a wooden barrel with an airy bottom, to which boiled rice is added and steamed in a wok. There is only enough room for one rice steamer in a wok, and since many rice steamers are needed for a banquet, the host family has to rely on the help of neighbours, so if they want six barrels of rice, they have to steam them at the same time in six different families. As many people had to be mobilised to perform their respective duties for each joyous event, it was a very busy and joyous occasion.

 

 There are many Hakka people in Sai Kung, and there is a small uninhabited island off the "High Island Reservoir" named "Rice Steamer Island", because the shape of the island is similar to that of a rice steamer. There are two islands in Jingtou Village, which is located near Sixteen Townships under the Pengleng Lower Sea. The larger one is called Wuzhou, which is shaped like a bowl of rice, while the smaller island is called "Three Cups of Wine and Two Cups of Tea" because there are five small hills on the small island, with the three hills in the middle being smaller and clustered together like three small wine cups for worshipping the gods, and the larger hills on the two sides resembling two teacups with no lugs. The two islands are collectively known as "Three Cups of Wine, Two Cups of Tea and One Bowl of Rice". In ancient times, the most important thing for Hakka people was to have a meal, so the word "rice" was added to the name of the place.

© 2025 KAT O

bottom of page